ADVANCES IN WATER WAVE MECHANICS
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摘要: 水波动力学,历史悠久,内容丰富,此文仅进行简要的历史回顾,以阐明其进展的思想、智慧、途径以及这门学科对其它学科进展的贡献和影响。随后,引进一个新理论,能模拟三维、非定常、有完全非线性和频散(或色散)性的重力毛细波,在深度任变的水中传播和演化的现象。此外,对二维水波在海滩上之涨落问题,提供一个Lagrange-Euler观点相结合的精确计算方法,以供读者推广和应用,此外,对外力作用下的水波系统共振现象,作些补充论述。Abstract: This article first gives a brief review on thehistory of various approaches of modeling water waves basedon differing emphases on the main physical parameters involved.It presents a unified theory for modeling unsteady,three-dimensional, fully nonlinear and fully dispersivegravity-capillary waves in water of variable depth. Alsopresented is a Lagrangian-Eulerian hybrid numerical method forevaluating run-ups of nonlinear waves on sloping beach.Applications of these methods are illustrated with severalproblems of fundamental significance.
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